To achieve the optimum results from your hair care products it is of vital importance to pair them correctly. The cuticle on our hair fibres will show a tendency to open up and stick out at higher pH whilst at a low pH the cuticles will close up and lie relatively flat. Moisture loss will reduce when the cuticles are closed and lying relatively flat, the hair will feel softer and smoother and the barrier oils will be more likely to shine.
When considering a shampoo you want to use a gentle surfactant that will gently remove dirt and trapped oils and grease from the hair strands, without the harsh stripping effects of some detergents. The skin on your scalp should not be irritated by the shampoo. The washing process is facilitated by slightly higher pH which opens up the cuticles very slightly, and allows the surfactant to remove all the dirt and debris attached to the hair. If a shampoo with some botanical actives is used this also allows the actives to penetrate into the fibre and between the cuticles.
When following this cleansing process with a conditioner it is important to use a conditioner with a lower pH than the shampoo as this will aid in closing the cuticles which helps the spread of the conditioner, leaving the hair smoother and easier to comb. When a conditioner contains botanical actives, these can then, rejuvenate, nourish, strengthen and protect the hair fibre and reduce moisture loss resulting in soft, smooth, shiny and healthy hair.
Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate
Lauryl Glucoside
The above diagrams depict closed and open cuticles, and indicate the effect of different pH’s have on the hair.
Whilst the pictures on the right shows actual pictures of hair strands washed in conventional shampoo (Sodium Lauryl Ether sulphate) and one washed with Ecocert approved organic Lauryl Glucoside used in DJK Organic Shampoo.
Tony Knott
Skin Health Scientist – DJK Jozi Natural Skincare (Pty) Ltd